I have a Panasonic Technics SA 5350 receiver. The left channel works but the right doesn't. I don't know very much about electronics but I was wondering if there's anyone here who could help me get both channels working? I can post pictures, of course.

(I know it's not worth anything but I'd like to fix it if it'd be less of a hassle than buying a new one).

edit - It's a hifi kind of thing that goes between the CD player and the speakers.

Very first things first:

1. Check to make sure it's not the speakers or cables? Swap them to make sure
2. Check the output connection from the receiver. If it's an RCA jack, wiggle it to see if it changes. If it's a wiring post, make sure it's a good connection.
3. Check the balance setting, not just where the knob is but also take note if you get any sound from the dead channel when adjusting it
4. See if adjusting the volume has any effect on the other channel

With the last two you are checking to see if the signal path has degraded or broken going through the volume or balance potentiometers. Turn the volume up nice and high, unplug the good channel and listen to see if adjusting those (or any other settings for that matter) make a difference.

Something else to check, plug in a speaker to the channel thats dead, turn on the reciever and max the volume, don't set it on anything that's going to produce sound. See if the channel is even getting power. If its not (you'll hear a buzzing or static sound from the speaker if it is) then you probably have a broken connection inside the box. Or worse.

Why do you want to fix it? Recievers aren't that expensive.

vintage receivers can sometimes sound better than their modern versions

they certainly have a look that you don't see these days

the problem is they are old... and there are some things that commonly go wrong with old electronics (most of which involve connections, switches, and pots which can get dirty or worn) these can often be fixed cheaply

Audiophile rubbish. There are only four parameters when measuring amplifiers: noise, frequency response, distortion and time-based errors (pitch, tempo errors). These are all easily measurable. Newer amps and receivers typically have much flatter frequency response, less noise and less distortion than those of the past.

Essentially what I'm saying is: all well designed amplifiers sound exactly the same. EXACTLY.

Tracer should fix his receiver because it's cheaper, because he has no need (presumably) for a newer model, and because it will be a learning experience. But NOT because it sounds better.

"sounds better" is subjective not objective

sounds better DOES NOT always mean sounds more accurate

just look at the never ending vinyl vs cd argument

Okay, fair enough.

That's true, but by the same standard, the 20,000$ audiophile audio system is no better than the 4 15inch sub-woofers that some idiot has installed in his car which are connected to some awful underpowered amp that clips horribly.


My thinking is that the whole "subjective" argument is just an excuse to indulge in irrational, elitist mindset.

It really depends on what you're going to do with it, but I agree. Well made amps will sound better, in that they have better sound capabilities. Generally speaking, most older units didn't have the capabilities of the mainstream units of today. So unless your unit is one of those better made ones...

Anyway, if you're worried about the look, get creative! Mod that sucker. Buy a new unit, gut the old one, custom LED screens, some minor soldering. BOOM tough actin tinactin errr new unit!

Take the top off of it and start jumping **** every which way.

Oh, check the fuses. If the dead channel is blown, replace it. If it blows gain you need a new AC transformer. This one happens a lot.

It's definitely not the speakers, I'll check the rest tomorrow and report back. Thanks for the help.

Just be happy old stereos are easier to fix than xboxs.

I tried fixing xboxs on the weekends to make a little extra money. FAIL.

Some work like a charm, then quit. Others go like the energizer bunny. You'll have better luck with a stereo, only problem is they are more likely to actually catch on fire.

My xbox 360 did this. Worked fine for a couple days after I fixed it, then took a crap when I went to trade it in for some games and the dude behind the counter tested it. Awesome timing.

Break 'er open and check for any lose/broken solder (or otherwise) connections. That's how I'm fixing my car stero, and how I fixed my receiver (was my dad's in college).

PS, rosin core sucks.

So here are some pictures. Can anyone tell me if the fuses are blown? It's actually the left channel that isn't working, and it's not the speakers. When I crank the volume there is no hiss on the left speaker (it's not the balance knob either, I turned that all the way to the right for listening purposes).

I've also tried hooking up the speakers to the main and the remote, no dice either way.

They don't look like they are, but I can't really tell because the picture kinds of sucks.

Obvious answer: If the right channel's fuse works, put it in the left channel slot and test it.

when testing making you try to go through the signal path in order, visually, as best as you can, but the best thing is so try to acquire a service manual with the schematic.

but i'd probably first, check continuity between the input jack and the board, then from the board's connection to the input jack to the next. etc. a DVM can help you see if any resistors have broken down. if it's old, check for dying capacitors too. in old guitar amps filter caps for the power supply leak and leak and tax the power transformer and ultimately it breaks down.

Filter caps should be right next to the power outlet and give power to the transistors. it's kinda hard to test even with a farad meter though, since sometimes the voltages get so high on these you can't really test them correctly with just a 9v powered farad meter.

but first i'd check the signal path. roughly an average signal path goes input, a pulldown resistor that goes from the signal to ground. then from the same signal there might be another resistor-capacitor network that prevents radio interference. coupling capacitors that prevent DC voltage from going to the rest of the circuit (that's a good test though, power on the amp. carefully measure from one end of a capacitor to the other with your DVM set on the DC range... if voltage leaks, that could lead to problems (or it already has caused problems!))

but to be honest, try to get a service manual, and go piece by piece. look at the board. it may look confusing. but your receiver has probably three circuits

the line input, the am-fm input. then they both go to the preamp, and there's probably some switching to select which of the line input or the am-fm goes to the preamp. of course that's all stereo so there's line L-R and Tuner L-R which goes into Preamp L-R and then from preamp the power amp L-R

some amps have no master volume and instead make the power amp run at full capacity and adjust the volume from the preamp section. yours may not even have a preamp and be dependent on volume from the supplied ''input'' device. a gut shot from the inside of the amp could help me guide you!

bear in mind, i know tube guitar amps and fix them. but i don't know jack about home audio amps. the principle is still the same, but with more filtering and less valves i guess!

Rosin sucks or rosin core sucks? Rosin core solder works fine under clean situations, like soldering a new PCB. The best fluxes for serious production are water soluble organic or inorganic fluxes. But unlike rosin, you must clean it thoroughly or it will cause corrosion.