Actually, the way real swords are assembled the blade DOES extend down into the handle. It's called a "tang" and in most swords like that it runs all the way through the grip and actually out the end of the pommel.
All the pieces (blade, grip, guard and pommel) were packed down tight together so they don't move, then the end of the tang was heated and flattened to hold the blade, guard, grips and pommel together. The remaining lump was then either filed flush with the surface of the pommel, or shaped into what's called a "tang nut."
Anyway, enough of the history of sword-making. Some recommendations:
1. You need a bigger pommel. This is important for a swords of that type (I assume it's meant to be some form of hand-and-a-half sword?) because it's the pommel that acts as a counterweight for the blade. It doesn't have to be huge (the length of the grip also helps balance the blade, especially on longer swords) but definately bigger than what you have.
2. Remove the downturned quillions on the guard that curve back towards the grip. That can interfere with the motion of the wrist. While there ARE swords, like rapiers, that have guards that come down over the hand like that it's important to note the wrist motion with rapiers differs from using a sword of that type.
3. Make the front pair of quillions extend a little farther as they curve towards the tip of the sword. Two reasons for this:
The main purpose of the guard is to deflect an opponent's sword blow away from the hand in a parry. The wider the guard, the better job it will do.
Second, what's VERY important to realize with Medieval European swords is that the ENTIRE sword was the weapon, even moreso than with Japanese sword arts!!! A lot of people misinterpret the use of swords because of the way movie fights are choreographed where every attack is made with the edge. However the ENTIRE sword--edge AND flat of the blade, pommel, grip and guard--was used to attack (believe it or not Middle Ages European sword arts were quite sophisticated. One of the German fencing "manuals" can be found here:
http://www.schielhau.org/Meyer.title.html What's important to remember is that this was an early WRITTEN manual. The techniques described here had been in use LONG before they were written down)! It goes without saying that the broader the guard, the easier it is to reach out and smack someone with the quillion.
4. Historical swords DO occaisonally have blades that are narrow at the hilts then flare into the cutting edge like that, however you may consider making that narrow part a LITTLE wider.
5. It's rare for a sword blade to have neither a fuller or a ridge down the middle. If you're going for more of a thrusting sword go wit a ridge for the stability. If it's more of a "cutting" sword use a fuller. It lightens the blade without sacrificing structural strength. That being said it will affect the blade cross-section.
5A. If you're going for more of a thrusting sword the tip is too broad. Looks alright if it's intended for more cutting.
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