I'm gonna google this too, but I thought it a good idea to ask here. Those of you that know about cars answer me this simple question. What causes a turn signal to come on steadily without flashing? I imagine it's a short somewhere. Any suggestions on where to start?

If it matters car is 1992 Ford Explorer.

My dad had the same problem, it ended up being that most of the thing had to be rehauled and he just got a new truck.

thats so cool ribby's dad had the same problem
what a coincidence man

[uhh nevermind. After googling it, and checking for myself it seems the rear bulb is out. I'll replace the bulb. hopefully that will fix it. I didn't think it'd be so simple..]

So uhh... Post car stuff. Pictures, stories about issues you've had.

Here's a good one. I had an intermittant problem with getting my car to start a couple years ago.

It would crank but no gas was getting to the spark plugs. Sometimes it worked fine, other times the gas wasn't being injected. I assumed fuel pump. First I checked the fuse box under the hood and the one inside the car as well to make sure I wasn't missing something simple. No problems there. So I went to the auto store, bought a new fuel pump (cost just over $100), (and while I was at it, a new fuel filter). Of course the fuel pump was in the gas tank (which is a 20 gallon tank, and of course was a realy pain to take off). After about 3 hours, I finally got the tank off (had to remove a bunch of protective plates first). So I put the new pump in, replaced the filter quickly (this was an inline filter, so it was easy to replace) and put it all back together. Car still wouldn't start. Back to the auto parts store to ask the experts there. Everyone there told me it was probably the fuel pump. I said I'd replaced that. They asked if I was sure I'd done it right. I was. Finally one guy remembers a relay from the fuse box under the hood to the fuel pump that causes the pump to come on when you first put the key in the ignition to pre-stage fuel in the combustion chambers. He sells me the relay for about $10. I take it home, pop the hood, pull out the bad one (no tools required, just squeeze and pull) and put the new one. Problem solved. Needless to say I was somewhat exasperated.

Could be as simple as one of the bulbs or fuses burned out. Check all the bulbs for the turn signals to make sure none of them are burned out.

[EDIT]Damn, i need to learn to hit submit when I get done typing and not let it sit there for a few minutes...[/EDIT]

As soon as I saw 1992, I instantly thought of the bulbs.

Simplest possible problem is that one of your blinker lights is out. The blinker signal goes really fast in my car when a bulb is out. But yeah, bulb or fuse would be the first things to check.

:saddowns:

It's a good idea to go to a junkyard and yank both relay panels from the same model car you have. Some relays might only be $10 at autozone, but others can only be gotten from a dealer and can cost upwards of $100. Having a complete spare set lets you check them first when something goes wrong.

1. Buy Car



2. Fix Car

........ (I am Here)

3. Paint Car

Could possibly be a flasher relay (maybe?), but check the bulbs first. Cheap & easy!

My favorite (and first) ford explorer!

"Electrical car trouble"

well theres your problem

new bulb fixed the problem.

I'm disappointed by a lack of car stories.

Can't leave the battery connected to my cobra when it sits for more then a day. Something in the electrical system drains it overnight practically. I haven't really pulled fuses yet to find out what. I disconnected the keyless entry system which seems to delay the drain significantly. Driving home from work around 12 am last summer the alarm for the car started blaring, at random and wouldn't stop. Ended up pulling the fuse for the alarm system as well. I'm praying its not the starter, that will be a *****. Ahh, Fords.

I refuse to pay a stealership $100+ dollars for them to just run tests on it.


Good enough?

oni does your car have heated seats? a lot of the time that's the problem.

also, get you could get a cheap multimeter, connect to the battery, and while the car is off pull fuses one by one. if you see a significant difference when the fuse is out, that's probably your problem.

Yeah pulling fuses was my next step i just have to find a good afternoon to do so. I don't believe it has heated seats. Its something i will check into though.

The ocean ate my jeep once.
Another time I had to rewire the entire fuse block.
My cat got so plugged the thing wouldn't run anymore (and aftermarket cats are a lot cheaper than OEM replacements).
I've replaced all sorts of things on the side of the road or in car parts shops parking lots (serpentine belt, alternator, battery, etc.).
I had a wheel bearing/hub blow out on my boat trailer while I was towing it.

Ah, the joys of being broke and having cheap cars. My dad taught me to do all those things when I was little. We used to fix his car at least once a month. Since I've grown up, I've changed out alternators, wheel bearings, fuel pumps, starters, cats and just about every valve and sensor a modern car has, plus all the easy stuff like spark plugs and oil changes and brake jobs.

I also thought the battery was going out... replaced it. Then found out the terminals were just dirty. That sucked. Live and learn I guess.

The single best thing I have to found to clean batter terminals/posts is Coca-Cola. Better than baking soda or that stuff you buy at the auto parts store.

yes indeed! makes you not want to drink coke anymore

The best way to clean battery terminals is to disconnect them and clean them with a terminal cleaning tool. It has two sides, one for the post and one for the hole (holy crap that sounds bad). It's basically a specially-shaped wire brush that not only removes any corrosion but also scores the lead terminal so when you reconnect it the connections are very solid. Then you can cover the entire post/terminal with battery grease (dielectric or special-purpose), this prevents corrosion in the future. You should recheck every year or so so you don't end up stuck again.

My car got stolen once..

But it was found, completely stripped. The insurance company gave me $5,000 and I put it back together myself saving about $1000

I wish that would happen to me. My car is worth $6000 more than I owe..

Buying a new car sucks I did it once (truck actually) and lost ~6k when I was forced to sell it after having to ditch my job and find a new one.

Honda's have good resale value

**** yeah hondas

zan or kop, I seem to remember you both being in to hondas, do you know of a good place to get a h22a+tranny?

Screw hondas, my wife bought a new one in 02 and we've had a ton of problems with it (including the transmission going out and the brakes needing replacement every year because they are way under-engineered for the weight of the car).

I can't say much for newer Hondas, never had one. I've had a few CB7s (90-93 Accords) and they have been great. The one I'm messing with now used to be my dad's, and he let it go to hell.

Short version of the story, so far I've noticed the plugs, wires, and transmission fluid have never been changed. It's a 92. With 184k miles.

Damn.

My lude.. sike haha you can't have my motor

No but actually...... maybe

You buy one Honda, that was probably owned by a 16 year old before (your girl drives it now so that's not much better), it has problems and you say 'screw honda'.. ok.. not trying to change your mind.

I owned a Volvo once, it was a peice of ****, but I don't look down on Volvo's because of it. I still like them. Overall it was a good car.

That's how Brian thinks. ONE instance of ONE product must ALWAYS represent EVERY instance of EVERY product by that company.

is transmission fluid supposed to be black?

no?

well crap

wait accord, noESC? you sure your not looking for an F22a

it's got an f22a in it now. but if the transmission is shot i'm going to have to pull the motor to replace it. and if i have to pull the motor i might as well drop in another one that's a little more fun.

it's a pretty easy swap from what i understand, as the base model prelude of the same model year came with the f22a, and the nicer ones came with the h22a.

Yeah I say go for it you'll love the power and I bet you could find one cheap(er) because now the k series is the new b/h.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-H22A-LSD-DOHC-VTEC-92-96-Honda-Prelude-Accord-90-96_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1171Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem58819917baQQitemZ380131415994QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

yeah

Such a great platform. Little low on torque but nothing a decent flywheel can't fix.

i'm probably not going to go crazy with it, it's just for a dd, hence the automatic