Hey, I resemble that remark.
My shots were
designed to look like an over-exposed camera, that was the point. That way you can see what should happen when things get too bright. When I say "full HDR pipeline", I'm talking lens streaks, flares, bloom and floating-point textures. Not just an HDR backbuffer and some auto-exposure. If you can add an HDR backbuffer and auto-exposure, the rest should be trivial.
Look at the super white spot on the left (distant hallway) in this shot:
The videos Jon posted are full of these, particularly in outdoor areas, and they're
much worse.
These areas should be causing at least
some bloom, as they would in reality. Without glow, these white spots are worse than having no HDR at all. It makes them hard to distinguish from very bright sources and washes out all textures which makes them look completely incorrect. Bloom gives the viewer a good sense of brightness, the more bloom something is causing, the brighter it seems. This holds true in actual photography, and in real-life as well (though we usually squint to protect our eyes). Without bloom, you just end up with walls (like above) that look just as bright as bright light sources on the walls nearby. In my shots, you can discern the difference between "bright spots" and "very bright spots". That's really what bloom is all about. The same thing happens in a real lens (natural or artificial). Humans are very good at detecting what's missing in a shot, which is why the Uncanny Valley is so difficult to cross. Bloom is one of those things that needs to be present.
Really, you're not using any benefits of HDR at all. Displays can only display from 0 to 255 anyway - HDR is usually used in games to provide proper ranges so that you can do accurate bloom effects and some other effects of that nature (blending, depth of field, motion blur, that kind of stuff). Auto-exposure and an HDR backbuffer are practically useless on their own.